2011 has been an odd year and a very trying year. In terms of climbing the oddness and trying side have resulted in me not spending enough time climbing. Health and free time problems have left me fat and unfit.
On the plus side Ive recently passed my CWA assesment meaning that I can now work as an indoor instructor.
So... I feel like I need to start again from the bottom. Obviously I havent forgotten how to climb but I've lost my leading head inside and out, I lack stamina and I feel weak. My first priority is to loose weight. I joined a gym and tried to do assisted pull-up but I was so bad at them that I enroled a personal trainer to help me get fit, lose weight and get strong. My first goal is to get ready for the winter climbing season which will hopefully start very soon.
Progress has been good but slow, I've lost around a stone from when I was at my biggest in the summer but I need to lose at least another stone. I can run for 20 minutes and I'm starting to look more muscular. It hasnt really made an impact on my climbing mainly because I havent had chance to let it take effect and recruit my new muscle. Although i did reach a point where I couldnt lead at all so there has been some progress.
My climbing goals at the moment is to start leading Fr5 at the wall, Im ok at Fr 4 and 4+ (big wow, right?) and need to start trying the 5s.
plan for the next month - loose weight (get under 13 stone) and attempt pull ups.
Climbing - lead Fr5 and climb more than once a week
watch this space
Sunday, 4 December 2011
Friday, 18 February 2011
Cairngorms - beautiful but dangerous!
The Cairngorms have been grim for most of the week but yesterday was the first day of beautiful sunshine. After a solo of Cinderella on Meggie on Saturday I havent had the crampons on due to the rubbish weather and the avalanche risk.
At the top of Cinderella we found a massive cornice, the route has a reputation for avalanches so it was a bit unnvering. Even more so when we got back to the hut to find someone had been taken by helicopter to Inverness hospital following an avalanche on the Goat Track. Other reports of incidents came through so Sunday was spent on mountain bikes round Rothiemurchus forest - great fun!
So Thursday was the first beautiful day, we walked up Cairngorn to find the ski centre RAMMED. The snow was crisp and icy, the wind had died down and everything looked god for the weekend. Today has been rubbish again though :(
I spend a week in February in Scotland every year and I've always been lucky with the weather but I suppose it was bound to break *sigh*
Thursday, 10 February 2011
Packing for Scotland!
Heres my attempt at being organised and making sure I don't forget anything. Packing for a trip to Aviemore, need climbing and walking gear plus photography stuff. As usual I have bought new kit - arcteryx baselayer, Patagonia back country guide pants.
Friday, 8 January 2010
January 2nd 2010 - Idwal
The forecast said it was going to be freezing for a few days and we’d had lots of snow so we set to Wales at 6.30, the dark sky was clear of cloud and it looked like the chances of ice would be high. Pulling up at Ogwen Cottage we could see that the snow was thick and came all the way down to the road. We quickly packed our sacks up at the car then set off up the path up towards Idwal Slabs, walking briskly past a frozen Llyn Idwal to warm up.
We planned to do East Wall Gully (grade I/II) then Tower Gully (I/II) so stopped at the bottom of East Wall to gear up. The snow was deep and powdery and there wasn’t much ice visible apart from a few weak smears on the larger slabs. We tried the ice on the lowest slab but the dull scraping of crampons in rock soon had us retreating. Eventually we headed up the deep powdery snow, weaving between the large boulders. The thick, unconsolidated snow made it hard work, the top layer of snow looked like polystyrene balls and was just as frustrating to wade through. Eventually I reached a short chimney and ungainly struggled up it using my knees once I’d got my axes firmly placed on top.
I’d done a grand total of two winter routes before today so my confidence in my axe and crampon technique wasn’t great but as I worked my way up the route I got into a rhythm, making sure my axes were secure then stepping up a little higher. Using the points of my crampons still felt wrong though, especially on rock where the ‘finger nails on blackboard’ sound jarred my ears and my nerves.
Reaching the cwm, we paused for a quick bite and surveyed the terrain ahead of us. Or at least we would have done if there had been any visibility. The cneifion arête was clearly visible but further into the cwm was .misty and merged into the white, snow filled sky seamlessly. We headed further up hoping to spot Tower Gully but it was impossible to see which of the snow filled gullies we were supposed to head for. We decided to exit the cwm at the far head wall and followed the trail created by others until we were forced to wait in our bothy shelter while we decided the next course of action. A packet of Jaffa cakes later we had decided to retreat back down the way we came. After 15 minutes I heard a shout that directed my gaze upwards, Tower Gully was clearly visible to the right of us so off we headed, carefully traversing around the steep slope to the bottom of the gully. It was chock full of soft snow but by taking the right hand side we could avoid the deepest part.
We planned to do East Wall Gully (grade I/II) then Tower Gully (I/II) so stopped at the bottom of East Wall to gear up. The snow was deep and powdery and there wasn’t much ice visible apart from a few weak smears on the larger slabs. We tried the ice on the lowest slab but the dull scraping of crampons in rock soon had us retreating. Eventually we headed up the deep powdery snow, weaving between the large boulders. The thick, unconsolidated snow made it hard work, the top layer of snow looked like polystyrene balls and was just as frustrating to wade through. Eventually I reached a short chimney and ungainly struggled up it using my knees once I’d got my axes firmly placed on top.
I’d done a grand total of two winter routes before today so my confidence in my axe and crampon technique wasn’t great but as I worked my way up the route I got into a rhythm, making sure my axes were secure then stepping up a little higher. Using the points of my crampons still felt wrong though, especially on rock where the ‘finger nails on blackboard’ sound jarred my ears and my nerves.
Reaching the cwm, we paused for a quick bite and surveyed the terrain ahead of us. Or at least we would have done if there had been any visibility. The cneifion arête was clearly visible but further into the cwm was .misty and merged into the white, snow filled sky seamlessly. We headed further up hoping to spot Tower Gully but it was impossible to see which of the snow filled gullies we were supposed to head for. We decided to exit the cwm at the far head wall and followed the trail created by others until we were forced to wait in our bothy shelter while we decided the next course of action. A packet of Jaffa cakes later we had decided to retreat back down the way we came. After 15 minutes I heard a shout that directed my gaze upwards, Tower Gully was clearly visible to the right of us so off we headed, carefully traversing around the steep slope to the bottom of the gully. It was chock full of soft snow but by taking the right hand side we could avoid the deepest part.
I got into a regular rhythm with my axe and crampon placements and soon made progress. Looking back I could see the gully sweeping away from me and disappearing onto the white mist, looking up I could see the top of the ridge doing the same. Finally we reached the top and paused to look around, the top was white with wind scoured crusts of snow, the wind pelted our faces with sharp ice. The decent was done quickly to get out of the wind and the weather that seemed to be deteriorating quickly. As we reached lower ground we could see the streams of well wrapped climbers weaving along the path by the side of the lake, the snow had brought everyone out for some fun. Nearer the car park the crowd mixed with families looking at the climber’s packs and ice axes with bemusement as children threw snow balls and tried to push each other into the icy steam. We stashed our gear in the car boot hurriedly as hail pelted down on us then prepared for the drive home, glad we had escaped the hill before the weather worsened.
Friday, 1 January 2010
New Years Day!
The first day of the year seems like an appropriate time to start a blog. Today saw my annual bracing New Year walk, an ideal way to clear your head after a season of drink and food. For the second year running I went to Langsett resevoir in the Peak District along with millions of other people. I know it was going to be cold when I saw a man struggling to get his car out of the icy car park, I suggested putting the footwell mats under the wheels and off he went after a quick shove.
Langsett is an odd place, people are sometimes dressed like they have just wandered in after a nice trip to the shops. Which may expalin why a small boy pointed at me in my Montane smock, TNF softshell trousers and gaiters and said 'Look! A mountain climber!'.
Mnay people walk along the shore through the wood and then turn round but I always like to do a full circuit. The snow was hard and icy on the moors on top but luckily my 'mountain climbing' clothes meant that I was snug and comfortable. And maybe slightly smug.
Langsett is an odd place, people are sometimes dressed like they have just wandered in after a nice trip to the shops. Which may expalin why a small boy pointed at me in my Montane smock, TNF softshell trousers and gaiters and said 'Look! A mountain climber!'.
Mnay people walk along the shore through the wood and then turn round but I always like to do a full circuit. The snow was hard and icy on the moors on top but luckily my 'mountain climbing' clothes meant that I was snug and comfortable. And maybe slightly smug.
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